jeudi 24 juillet 2014

This Year's Best Small Batch Bourbon

By Miranda Sweeney


One man's taste is often paramount when choosing a favorite food or beverage. Judging good from bad is essentially subjective. However, there are major competitions in which a panel of renowned judges compares selected varieties of whiskeys. The best small batch bourbon will probably have earned a place at the top of such a contest, winning a 'gold' or, more likely, a 'double gold' rating. Even a silver or bronze medal in such company is deemed impressive.

Bourbon is essentially corn whiskey, although the mash might contain only 51% of this grain. After fermentation, the clear spirit is aged in charred oaken barrels which have never been used for another purpose. By law, it is an American product, most of which comes from Kentucky. Tennessee also has this sort of whiskey; Jack Daniels is one example. Kentucky claims that their iron-free water and limestone aquifers make the best whiskey.

The history of this kind of spirit is shrouded in time. Some believe a pioneer Baptist minister, Reverend Elijah Craig, was the first to use a charred oak barrel for aging. Jacob Spears, an early distiller, was the first known person to give his corn whiskey the name of 'bourbon'. The name may have come from the New Orleans street named after the French royal dynasty.

Reading accounts of the tastes evoked by a fine oak-barrel-aged sour mash is like reading the raptures of wine connoisseurs. A whiskey might have overtones of caramel, French toast, and a cigar box, with a velvety texture even though it's over 100 proof. The cigar box flavor comes from aging in a charred oak barrel, as does the color, and other flavors come from the combination of mash ingredients and the period of aging.

Although the law requires a minimum of 80 proof, none of this class gets to competition level. Aging is also optional, although two years is considered the minimum and anything under five must be so labeled. Small batches are usually nine or more years in the barrel. The 'smalls' are made with fewer barrels of spirits - to give greater quality control - with Maker's Mark at twenty being on the high side and Dickel Barrel Select (a Tennessee product) being made with fewer than ten.

Mixologists use bourbon in cocktails such as the Manhattan, the whiskey sour, and the Old Fashioned. However, true aficionados prefer their whiskey neat or with a splash of water. Tradition dictates that bourbon-and-water be gently stirred with the finger. Perhaps the most famous of Kentucky libations is the Mint Julep, a mint-garnished, sugared highball served at Derby parties and other summer festivities.

There are whiskey competitions around the country, such as the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the International Whiskey Competition held in Chicago. In 2013, San Francisco judges liked a 'wheated' variety, the Pappy Van Winkle 15-year Old. Chicago judges picked Knob Creek 9-year Old for highest honors in the 2014 competition.

Just as wine lovers sometimes treat themselves to a rare vintage, you who love corn whiskey might want to try some of the award-winning brands on special occasions. See if you agree with international judges on what makes the best of the best.




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